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Friday, June 16, 2006

Perfume Review: Andy Tauer Lonestar Memories


Lonestar Memories, the third perfume by the amazingly talented Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer, was inspired by “memories of a wide land, open pastures, earthy leather, warm smoke”. The scent is an invitation to voyage, perhaps to the Texas of Andy’s memories, perhaps to some other place of your dreams …It is guaranteed to give you the most acute feeling of wanderlust, a longing for far, far away lands and a hunger for adventure. This is the scent of conquistador’s glove, of the first settler’s saddle, of a well-worn but still elegant leather steamer trunk of a seasoned traveler.

I love leather scents and am quite fussy when it comes to that note. My taste runs more towards Cuir de Russie type of leather rather than Peau d’Espagne; I adore the robust smokiness of birch tar typical of the former. It seems, however, that the right kind of smokiness is not that easy to find. Some leather scent are not smoky enough (or shall I say, too wimpy) for my taste, some, although wonderfully unique (think Kolnisch Juchten), are too smoky/meaty/bizarre to be easily wearable. In Lonestar Memories, Andy Tauer manages to achieve the perfect smoky effect. The birch tar note is full-bodied and rich, but, spiced up by geranium and sage and softened by jasmine, its smokiness is kept in check…there is a hint of something barbarian and wild here, but there is also elegance and sophistication. Apart from the beautifully executed smoky aspect, another very attractive part of the scent is the warm, luxurious and earthy base accord of myrrh, tonka, vetiver and sandalwood. The accord has unexpected spicy-incensy sweetness that, paired with the smoky leather, is incredibly attractive.

Lonestar Memories makes me want to escape the mundane confines of my everyday world, it makes me want to travel I do not know where in search of I do not know what…it also makes me want to quote Baudelaire, so brace yourself:

Tell me, does your heart sometimes fly away, Agatha,
Far from the black ocean of the filthy city,
Toward another ocean where splendor glitters,
Blue, clear, profound, as is virginity?
Tell me, does your heart sometimes fly away, Agatha?

The sea, the boundless sea, consoles us for our toil!
What demon endowed the sea, that raucous singer,
Whose accompanist is the roaring wind,
With the sublime function of cradle-rocker?
The sea, the boundless sea, consoles us for our toil!

Take me away, carriage! Carry me off, frigate!
Far, far away! Here the mud is made with our tears!
— Is it true that sometimes the sad heart of Agatha
Says: Far from crimes, from remorse, from sorrow,
Take me away, carriage, carry me off, frigate?

How far away you are, O perfumed Paradise,
Where under clear blue sky there's only love and joy,
Where all that one loves is worthy of love,
Where the heart is drowned in sheer enjoyment!
How far away you are, O perfumed Paradise! (...)
(Grieving and Wandering, Charles Baudelaire)


Lonestar Memories is available at tauerperfumes.com, $65.00 for 50ml of Eau de Toilette.

*The first image is from tauerperfumes.com. The second image is from morflot.org

25 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Aaaaahhhhhhhh...*drooling*

12:43 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, it's gorgeous, isn't it? I get new leather jacket, then leather jacket worn in the great outdoors, and then something caramelly which reminds me of Corsica and the sap bubbling and boiling on a piece of driftwood in a campfire by the river.... And the packaging is just lovely! A simple white box with the cowboy picture on top, all tied together with a piece of hemp string (which smells great as well!). Inside the very simple, very minimalist bottle lies on a bed of white tissue-paper, with a hand-written and signed card with Andy's wishes that we might enjoy the scent. I was soooo touched! Getting a bottle of perfume with the personal good wishes of the perfumer has to be an all-time first!

4:58 AM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

*faints*

7:22 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Roby,
It is definitely drool-worthy :-)

9:30 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

D,
I loved the packaging too, especially I thought the hemp rope was such a great touch.
So you too get something slightly sweet? (you say, caramelly) I really liked that aspect.

9:32 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Judith,
Drooling, fainting...my work here is done! :-)

9:32 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Christina,
You should be trying it any day now, maybe even today!

9:33 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Am thrilled it's finally available! Sounds irresistible. But, ummm...I confess I'm one of that small minority who finds Kolnisch Juchten to be very wearable. :-) My favorite, though, is Cuir de Russie, which I could mainline. Andy's sounds like it is destined to be a new HG leather.

9:46 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Elle,
I wear Kolnisch Juchten too, but I do have to be in a certain...mood I guess to wear it, it is a little more demanding. Andy's scent I could put on whenever. It is more easy-going :-)

9:50 AM EDT  
Blogger priscilla said...

I think I'm more impressed with the homage this perfume is getting from such wonderful reviewers than anything...What a lovely tie-in with that poem. Andy Tauer is lucky to have such supporters (of course, his talent as a parfumeur helps). :)

10:16 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

G,
It's all due to his talent and this wonderful scent. Only a great fragrance makes me want to wax poetic like this. For most, I can hardly force myself to write two paragraphs :-)

10:18 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

H,
Thank you! It seems I have defeated the stubborn template. :-)

10:19 AM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

*Saying "hi" to Elle* I often wear KJ, too, --and Cuir de Russie is my all-time favorite! Just thought I'd let you know you had company:0

11:20 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

wow...as usual, you made me add something to "the list!" I really like Rose Maroc...this sounds even better!

11:20 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

First, congrats on the new look! :) The notes for this are undoubtedly drool-worthy (which I'm presently doing). Must procure a sample. Hey, is that guy supposed to peek like that or is it just my darn Firefox? OK, maybe not darn since I do prefer it to IE. ;D

11:24 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Patty,
It will and you will be a happy girl! :-)

11:30 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I really like Maroc too. If I had to choose just ne favorite Tauer scent...I wouldn't be able to do it :-)

11:31 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Ina,
He is actually supposed to be peeking :-) It is an image I "borrowed" from Andy's site.

11:32 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, OK. Good. I was just curious. ;)

11:41 AM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Ok, with what you know of my taste, would I like it?

2:30 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

R,
I gave up on predicting what you might like...:-) What did you think of L'Air du Desert Marocain? Because to me they are similar, in spirit more than in notes, I guess, and if you liked the one there is a good chance you'd like the other one too.

2:34 PM EDT  
Blogger katiedid said...

Like Dinazad, I've gotten little intonations of something caramelly on a couple times I've worn it, too. But not always. It's a bit like his other two, in that it's a shape-shifter, changing its impressions on me a little each time.

And you and the Baudelaire! Heh!

Glad to see you've found a happy solution to your template woes, dear M.

7:09 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Thank you, Katie!

And that makes 3 of us with something caramelly-sweet. I like that aspect.

Shape-shifter...I like that too!

7:11 PM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Luckyscent emailed me that they will have it in about a week as well. Can't wait to sniff it!

9:47 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

T,
That's great news!

9:49 PM EDT  

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