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Friday, December 04, 2009

The Futur is Green. Robert Piguet Futur

Knock on wood, there seems to be a new wave of green fragrances upon us. Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps D'Une Fete, Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss, Issey Miyake A Scent, re-released Givenchy III (such as it is) and now Piguet's newly re-issued Futur (and am I forgetting something?) are making me hopeful and longing for more. Green is the perfume category I adore, from A (as in Aliage) to Y (as in by YSL). Green scents smell classic slash edgy, and as such- forever modern. That classic-edgy duality makes them ladylike in one context and bold and outre in another. It all depends on the angle at which they turn to you, and they are full of angles.

Futur is a perfect example of the angular, jolie laide beauty of the green genre. And by the way, kudos to the brand for not only avoiding the usual "toning down" that is the curse of most re-issues but actually making the new version seemingly even more forcefully green, dry and sharp than the old (at least judging by a vintage sample). When I say, sharp, in regards to green fragrances, I always mean it is a compliment. That is what I am looking for in green scents: the snappiness, the haughtiness, the attitude, the coldness. Bergamot in the top notes and vetiver with cedar in the base provide plenty of that in Futur. Were it not for ylang-ylang and jasmine in the heart, the scent would have been maximum attitude and zero wearability even for me. As it is, the creamy flowers soften the blow of spiky green accord and lend the composition a hint of classic femininity. "Old money" dressed in kinky leather.

Available at Harrods, £85.00 for 100ml.

Image credit, Mario Sorrenti for Vogue Paris.

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17 Comments:

Blogger Flora said...

Oooh, I can't wait to try this! Piguet did a great job with Visa, Baghari and Cravache, and when I found out this one was next - SQUEEE! I adore green perfumes so much, and the great ones just transport me to another realm.

(I shall nor speak of the travesty that is the Givenchy III reformulation. It's too depressing.)

12:58 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

So good news I hope I can find it soon here!
By the way I have smelled Givenchy III reformulation, and without ever knowing the real old version I can imagine the difference!!! I am freaking up with all these reformulations.The Diors are also getting a hand! They are big masters who made these perfumes, it's like you will rewrite and reorchestrate a classical piece of music and then you will sell only that!!!

4:44 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Donna,
I agree that they are doing a very good job on these. Futur might possibly be the best of them.

6:23 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Anonymous,
That is a great analogy!

6:24 AM EST  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

Donna- I'll take care of that [LOL]..

Marinochka- I really think this one is fine; compared the vintage to the new, and the resurrection, if you will-
Is very good ;-)

That said, Roja Dove will NOT have it in his shop..
He doesn't like it.

Love that guy-
But MORE for us ;-)

8:26 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Ida, interesting, and I liked the new more than vintage. What is the reason RD doesn't like it?

8:32 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This sounds fabulous! I've just recently discovered and fallen unexpectedly in love with Piguet's Bandit, so I'll be eager to try Futur as well.

9:12 AM EST  
Blogger Mals86 said...

"Old money in kinky leather" is a fascinating phrase!

Le Temps d'une Fete is a Top Five all time fave for me (might be Top Three, if truth be told), and I like green *florals* very much - but there does have to be a strong floral presence for me to love a green.

Still have not sniffed any Piguets other than Fracas; must remedy that soon.

9:30 AM EST  
Blogger Cynthia said...

Ooohh... it sounded like something that I might be able to admire, but not wear, until you said jasmine and ylang ylang at the heart. Now, it's moved on my list of things to try - if it ever comes to the U.S. that is.

9:53 AM EST  
Blogger Aimée L'Ondée said...

Thanks so much for the review. I'm looking forward to trying Futur! I love green fragrances so much. In fact, I'm wearing today what I think of as the perfect green oriental -- Ormonde Woman. So perfect on this wintery day. I'm so glad I finally jumped in and got a full bottle of it. Exquisite.

10:12 AM EST  
Blogger Kevin Guyer said...

Tried it yesterday at Bergdorf and thought it shared a lot of notes with No. 5. Nice work.

11:00 AM EST  
Blogger elle said...

I am thrilled w/ this trend in perfumery! And I love Futur. What shocked me was that I actually prefer this reformulation to the original. How odd that RD doesn't like it.

1:02 PM EST  
Anonymous Flora said...

I forgot to mention - I recently acquired a tiny little bottle of the original Baghari - and I think the new version is a really good reproduction now that I have treid both. Who ever thought there could be such a thing as an orange chypre, and that it could actually work? That gives me even more hope for Futur! If it really is the best of the re-creations from the Piguet vintage frags, I am really in trouble - in a good way. :-)

1:18 PM EST  
Anonymous HemlockSillage said...

Thanks for the review! I look forward to trying this on skin. I have a sample, waiting to open. . .

I agree that this year's green trend is exciting. Your idea of the sharp, snappish green is *exactly* what I love about all these green classics.

There was a woman, older, wealthy, walking out of church in a brisk wind the other day, and I had to ask what her lovely fragrance was. . .It was EL's Private Collection. . .She set me off on a green floral streak that took me through Niki St. Phalle, Sisley's Eau de Soir, Moss Breches, and now OJ's Tiare.

Now you all have me lemming PdN's Le Temps d'une Fete. Thanks so much for your blog. You and your gentle readers open worlds of perfume art for me.

4:11 PM EST  
Blogger fashionistaag said...

Wow...this one definitely sounds like something I need to try on skin! I've been having a passionate love affair with Eau de Soir for the past couple of weeks, so maybe Futur will somehow distract me... Although it probably won't be long before I start craving a bottle.:)

By the way - it's really nice to see you writing again. Замечательный блог, спасибо!)

6:17 PM EST  
Anonymous Claudia0219 said...

I tried sample of this one and it is by far my favorite from the Robert Piguet lineup. Very unique and green in a sexy way. Love it.

12:47 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Judging by all the responses everyone was so excited to try Futur but I wonder if everyone liked it?? Apparently not because it's been discontinued from most places.

11:14 PM EST  

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